Epic, epic surfing today at Westport. Just about as good as any day I’ve seen at Ocean Beach, SF–I didn’t realize the surfing could get that good in Washington.

The night before the swell was 14′ & 13 seconds at bouy 46041 at Cape Elizabeth. Swell direction was West. Swell was forecasted to drop and though the night before was stormy, winds were forecasted to drop to 8mph out of the South.

Tom Romary and I showed up at 8:30 and checked the Groins. It was high tide and the waves were huge, but the other options were looking pretty grim so we decided to suit up. As we were about to jump in, sanity stepped in and we realized that it was a deathtrap we were walking into with the heavy surf washing right up onto the rocks within each jetty. So we drove to the Cove and surfed there.

Winds were offshore, skies were blue and the waves couldn’t have been much better. It was about 2 feet overhead, hollow, throwing top to bottom–perfectly shaped waves breaking nearly right on shore. Several locals were ripping it up getting deep barrels. Tom & I were merely trying to survive.

The bouy read upon return was: Winds out of the ESE at 9 knots. Waves 10′ at 13 seconds from the West.